{"id":125,"date":"2012-02-09T22:17:22","date_gmt":"2012-02-09T22:17:22","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/?p=125"},"modified":"2022-03-22T01:10:51","modified_gmt":"2022-03-22T01:10:51","slug":"etching-brass","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/2012\/02\/etching-brass\/","title":{"rendered":"Etching Brass"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I ran across the steampunk workshop&#8217;s <a href=\"http:\/\/steampunkworkshop.com\/electroetch.shtml\">brass etching guide<\/a> a while ago, and I&#8217;ve been meaning to try it out since then. Last week I finally got around to it, and the results look pretty nice.<\/p>\n<p>The process is pretty simple.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/2012-01-28-17.09.37.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-126 alignnone\" title=\"2012-01-28 17.09.37\" src=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/2012-01-28-17.09.37-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Toner stencils\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/2012-01-28-17.09.37-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/2012-01-28-17.09.37-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/2012-01-28-17.09.37.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 85vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Step one is to print a stencil onto glossy paper (I used old magazine pages) using a laser printer. The laser printer is necessary because the toner can be melted using an iron.<\/p>\n<p>I cleaned the brass I was planning to use by polishing it with steel wool, then rubbing it down with alcohol to remove any oils from my fingers. Next I put the stencil face down on my brass and ironed it. I held the iron down on each stencil for two or three minutes and pushed pretty hard. This melted the toner and stuck it to the brass.<\/p>\n<p>After ironing, the paper was stuck to the toner, which was stuck to the brass. I soaked the whole thing in water overnight, then gently brushed away all the paper. Some of my stencils ended up with a couple of holes, so I painted over those with some acrylic paint.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/2012-01-28-17.10.01.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-127 alignnone\" title=\"2012-01-28 17.10.01\" src=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/2012-01-28-17.10.01-220x300.jpg\" alt=\"Brass with stencils\" width=\"220\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/2012-01-28-17.10.01-220x300.jpg 220w, https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/2012-01-28-17.10.01-751x1024.jpg 751w, https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/2012-01-28-17.10.01.jpg 1001w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 220px) 85vw, 220px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The next step was the actual etching. This involves submerging the brass in a copper sulfate solution and running a current through it. The copper sulfate solution is a very pretty blue.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0239.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-128 alignnone\" title=\"IMG_0239\" src=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0239-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Copper sulfate bath\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0239-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0239-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 85vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The working piece (which you want to remove metal from) gets connected to the positive terminal of an old battery charger I had. I used an old piece of brass about the same size as my working piece as the negative terminal. When I hooked up the battery charger, molecules would leave the surface of the positively charged plate and be deposited on the negatively charged plate.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0240.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-129 alignnone\" title=\"IMG_0240\" src=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0240-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Etching setup\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0240-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0240-1024x768.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The etching took about half an hour to an hour, but part of that was because my current was actually too high. Normally a higher current corresponds to faster etching, but in my case the high current caused the battery charger to overheat and shut down. I had to keep letting the battery charger cool before I could restart the etching. I could reduce the current by putting a resistor in series with the brass plates, but it would have to be a very small, very high power resistor.<\/p>\n<p>The battery charger is rated for 6A, but I was running probably 12 to 20 through it. Let&#8217;s just assume 16A. That means my brass etching setup probably has a resistance of about 12\/16 = .75 Ohms (see <a href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/ohms_law\">Ohm&#8217;s law<\/a>). To drop the current to only 6A, we&#8217;d need a resistor that was 12\/6-.75=1.25 Ohms. It would have to be able to withstand 1.25*6^2 = 45W. That&#8217;s is a beefy resistor.<\/p>\n<p>An alternative to a series resistor is to make the resistance of my etching bath higher. I could do this by using a smaller negative terminal. The negative terminal should be about the same size as the working piece so that it etches evenly, but I think I could get away with using a brass mesh rather than with using a brass plate.<\/p>\n<p>In any case, my etches came out fairly nicely. The holes I patched up using acrylic paint didn&#8217;t turn out very well. I think the acrylic paint pulled off while I was etching. Everything covered by toner turned out nicely though. After I had finished the etching, I grabbed some steel wool and polished the whole thing to a nice shine.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0246.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft size-medium wp-image-130\" title=\"IMG_0246\" src=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0246-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Etched animals\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0246-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/02\/IMG_0246-768x1024.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 225px) 85vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I ran across the steampunk workshop&#8217;s brass etching guide a while ago, and I&#8217;ve been meaning to try it out since then. Last week I finally got around to it, and the results look pretty nice. The process is pretty simple. Step one is to print a stencil onto glossy paper (I used old magazine &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/2012\/02\/etching-brass\/\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;Etching Brass&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[36,37,38,39],"class_list":["post-125","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-art","tag-brass-etching","tag-electricity","tag-steampunk"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.9 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Etching Brass - Theory and Practice<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/morganredfield.com\/blog\/2012\/02\/etching-brass\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Etching Brass - Theory and Practice\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I ran across the steampunk workshop&#8217;s brass etching guide a while ago, and I&#8217;ve been meaning to try it out since then. Last week I finally got around to it, and the results look pretty nice. The process is pretty simple. 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